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Choosing
a Pet:
When we look at the thousands of animals
abandoned at shelters every year, many end up there
because their owners did not consider the consequences
of owning a pet. "They don't have enough time or
energy. The puppy grew too big. It was too hard to handle.
Somebody developed an allergy. They had to move and
just couldn't take it along. "
When choosing a pet, take the time to carefully consider
the demands a pet will make upon your lifestyle. The
right pet will be a friend that will provide love and
companionship for many years.
How much time people are at home
Dogs require time and energy. They need
to be housebroken, they need to be taught manners, they
need exercise and attention. Cats require much less
time than a dog. Most litterbox train overnight, they
entertain themselves and are independent by nature.
Both cats and small dogs can fit in small
spaces such as apartments. With dogs, accessibility
to the outdoors is an issue. What if your apartment
is not on the first floor? With an indoor cat, consider
where the litterbox will go. If you are looking at a
bigger dog, space outdoors as well as indoors must be
considered. If you would like to let your cat outdoors
look at how safe the area is. Are you close to major
roads? And don't forget to look at proximity to neighbours
and issues of wandering and barking.
The costs of purchasing a pet will vary
from free to thousands for a show dog. Regardless, this
is only one of many costs to consider.
Feeding pets will vary from .50/day for
a cat to many dollars a day for a large dog, and will
add up to the largest expense over the pet's lifetime.
Collars, leashes, dishes and toys will have to be purchased.
Don't forget a crate for the puppy, and consider if
you'll need an outdoor kennel or a fenced backyard.
A vaccination series and spay/neuter
are major veterinary expenses in the first year. Money
will also have to be budgeted annually for vaccines,
flea treatment and deworming. And someday in its lifetime
your pet will likely get sick or hurt - can you afford
the veterinary bills?
All the family members must approve of
the choice and not mind helping out once in awhile.
Realize that most children are not mature enough to
be responsible for a pet, and the bulk of the work will
fall to an adult.
A cat or dog will often live 15 years
or more. How is your life likely to change? What will
happen to this pet when you go away on vacation? If
you move, marry or have children? If somebody develops
allergies? Be prepared to love and look after your pet
all of its life. Pick one that will give you joy long
after its newness has worn off.
Purebred or Mixed breed
The main advantage choosing a purebred
animal is being able to predict size, appearance and
temperament. With most mixed breeds, one or both parents
is unknown. It is very difficult to say at 6 weeks of
age what type of dog this puppy will turn into. There
are advantages to mixed breeds as well. They are much
cheaper(often free) and there is a decreased chance
of genetic defects.
Puppies and kittens are cute, very appealing
and easier to bond to than an adult animal. They are
also more work, requiring more time and attention than
an older animals. Predicting what they will grow up
to be like can be difficult. With an adult animal you
get what you see. Size, coat and temperament are already
established. These animals come come with good and bad
habits already established.
Read books on dogs and dog breeds and
cats and cat breeds before you go looking at specific
animals. Find out all the good and bad points for each
one. As well as appearance and temperament, look carefully
at the health problems the breed may be prone to.
Always look for a non aggressive pet.
To enjoy this pet, its needs must suit your wants. For
example, dogs who tend to be hyperactive and need lots
of exercise are beat suited to those with an active
lifestyle. Cats and dogs that are nervous do best in
a calm, quiet household. Dogs that are stubborn and
tend to be dominant will need a lot of obedience training.
The size of a dog is not the only consideration.
For both cats and dogs consider carefully the type of
hair coat and the grooming requirements. Many of the
beautiful long coats require daily brushing to prevent
matts. Some pets require regular clipping. A short coated
animal may not require much brushing, but often will
shed more.
Some health considerations are part of
an animal's appearance. Pushed in faces may result in
respiratory problems. Folds and wrinkles on the skin
often are associated with skin problems. Ear and eye
shapes may result in ear and eye disease. Understanding
these problems will enable you to pick the healthiest
animal possible within the breed you are interested
in.
Other health problems may be breed associated but are
not things we can easily evaluate on appearance and
often will show up later in life. Hip dysplasia, retinal
degeneration and epilepsy are good examples. Inquiring
about these illnesses and looking for references is
about the best we can do avoid them.
This is important for a number of reasons,
regardless of whether the animal is purebred or mixed
breed.
You can evaluate how well the puppy or
kitten has been socialized
You can evaluate how clean and healthy the pets and
the environment are
You can evaluate the personality and appearance of your
new pet's parents
If a breeder will not let you visit - look elsewhere
for a pet.
Many kittens and puppies, whether mixed
breed or purebred, come from dubious backgrounds. Purchasing
an animal who has been vet checked is your best guarantee
of a healthy pet. We will be checking for fleas, lice,
ringworm, ear mites, colds, diarrhea and worms, among
other things. A free barn kitten that may require hundreds
of dollars to clean it up, is in the end, not as good
a deal as the $50 kitten from the shelter that has been
vet checked and given its first needles. Similarly,
look for a breeder who has had the animals examined,
dewormed and first vaccination.
• A friendly personality
• Bright, clear eyes
• Clean, shiny skin inside the ears
• A strong, solid body
• Smooth, regular breathing, and fresh breath
• A clean, glossy coat and healthy- looking skin
• White teeth and firm, pink gums
• A good appetite
Spend some time with your choices and
pick the one that seems just right to you.
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If you are interested in providing
a home for an animal in need in central Nova Scotia
check out the SPCA or Humane Society.
TOP
Your
New Kitten:
Many kittens come from less than clean
environments, often farms and barns. Even when the mother
cat is a house pet, the father is usually a stray. Because
of this, a check-up with your veterinarian is advised
as soon as possible and definitely before introducing
the new kitten to any other pets.
Instead of waiting until your pet is
sick to visit your veterinarian, consider preventative
health care measures. Preventative health care (i.e.
vaccination, etc...) is a lot less costly than treating
disease and gives your pet the best chance for a healthy
life.
The following concerns, procedures and
preventatives will be addressed during your first visit.
RESPIRATORY INFECTIONS
These infections, which cause sneezing or runny eyes,
are extremely common in kittens. We vaccinate to prevent
them, but if a kitten already has one, medication may
be required. A small percentage of these kittens will
be plagued with respiratory problems for the rest of
their lives.
FELINE LEUKEMIA VIRUS (Felv)
You should consider a feline leukemia test. This is
one of the most common infectious diseases of cats we
see. A cat exposed to this virus has three possible
outcomes: they may get rid of it and stay healthy (30%),
they may remain in a carrier state and spread it to
other cats (30%), or they die (40%). A positive test
result does not tell us which of these outcomes will
occur, but it does tell us the cat is contagious, which
is very important if there are other cats in the house.
Testing involves a blood test that can usually be run
while you wait.
VACCINATIONS
The diseases we vaccinate for have no cures and are
often fatal. Kittens need a series of 2-3 vaccinations,
given 4 weeks apart, beginning at 6 weeks of age.
EXTERNAL PARASITES
Besides fleas, kittens commonly carry lice and ear mites,
as well as other parasites. Catching these before they
spread to other pets and infest the environment is very
important. Lice and ear mites are easily treated with
the appropriate insecticide.
Fleas are the number one cause of skin
problems in cats. Most flea problems can be prevented
by using very safe, non-insecticidal products that stop
fleas from reproducing. The easiest of these is an injection
that lasts 6 months. Beware of insecticidal collars
and sprays in small kittens as they can result in toxicity.
INTERNAL PARASITES
All kittens need to be dewormed. Kittens can be infected
by their mothers and these intestinal parasites are
not visible in stools. If they are left untreated they
can stunt the kitten's growth, and cause vomiting and
diarrhea. Your veterinarian will recommend an appropriate
worm medicine.
There are other intestinal parasites
kittens can get besides worms, such as the protozoa
coccidia. These will not be treated with regular dewormers.
All kittens with diarrhea need a stool sample checked.
SPAY/NEUTER
There are many medical and behavioral problems associated
with reproduction. Animal overpopulation is a serious
problem. All pets should be spayed or neutered to enhance
the quality of their life and yours. We typically spay
or neuter around 6 months of age.
- Gradually switch diets. If possible,
when you first bring a kitten home, keep on the same
food for a few days. Then mix new food with the old
food and switch over slowly. This will prevent diarrhea.
- Stick primarily to one food
throughout your cat's life. Variety is a human trait
that pets have no desire for unless we teach it to
them. Especially avoid table food. Because it is generally
very tasty, cats will learn to hold out for it and
not eat their well-balanced cat food. Picky eaters
are not born - they are created!
- Pick your kitten's diet carefully.
The saying “you get what you pay for” is
never truer than with pet foods. Unfortunately, there
is no easy way to compare foods. Premium quality foods
are the best and will decrease the risk of health
problems later in life (especially urinary tract disease).
Beware of pet food commercials. If you listen close
you will realize that most commercials promote cat
food on one basis – TASTE. Nutrition is rarely
mentioned. Most of these diets are more expensive
due to the advertising and offer little nutritional
advantage for your pet. When we feed cats foods based
on taste alone we encourage overeating, which is not
good considering that obesity is one of the most common
problems in cats.
- No Milk! Milk only became part
of the feline diet because they were traditionally
farm animals and it was free. It was never healthy!
Cats are not meant to have milk after they are weaned.
Milk is a common cause of diarrhea and can predispose
to bladder problems.
- Canned food or dry? Dry food
is one of the best things you can do for your cat's
teeth and is less expensive than canned. It is also
easier to overfeed on canned food and cause obesity.
Kittens have sharp little teeth and by 6-8 weeks can
crunch dry food just fine. Try feeding primarily dry
food (with canned as a treat if you wish) or mix canned
and dry together.
- Drinking water. Don't be surprised
if your kitten prefers the sink or tub to his water
dish. Cats have evolved as a desert animal and don't
need to drink much water. Unfortunately, this has
predisposed them to urinary problems. Encourage drinking
by keeping a water dish in the bathroom or the plug
in the sink with a bit of water in it. Don't forget
to change the water frequently.
Kittens are very clean and will litter
box train very quickly. Just show them where it is after
they eat. Be careful not to give the kitten too much
space at first. They can get lost in the house and end
up choosing an inappropriate area out of desperation.
Choosing a litter box: The litter box
should be big enough for the adult cat to fit into,
dig and turn around. Generally most litter boxes will
be 18” x 14” with a 4” rim. An adult
litter box may be too big for a little kitten –
you may want to temporarily use a plastic or metal pan
with a 2” rim. Cats like covered boxes for the
privacy and owners like the way they help contain the
mess and odor.
Type of litter: Generally litter is either
clay, clumpable or organic (like recycled newspaper).
All litter boxes should have feces cleaned daily. With
clumpable litter the clumped liquid waste needs to be
scooped daily and the remaining litter stays fresh.
Clay and organic litter boxes need to be totally dumped
and cleaned once or twice a week. Choose the litter
that suits your needs.
If they get into potted plants: Cover
the pot with foil or make a cardboard cover with watering
holes. One can also try sprinkling the pot with mothball
crystals.
This is the most important decision
you will ever make about your pet. Statistics prove
indoor cats live longer and are healthier. A cat that
lives solely indoors can't get hit by a car, fall out
of a tree or get hurt by another animal. Their risk
of fleas and worms and other contagious disease are
minimal. Unfortunately, some cats are just not happy
indoors. While some are content being taken out on a
leash, for most it will just increase the urge to escape.
Rough Play Behavior
- Stalking and pouncing are normal
play behaviors, but it is important not to allow this
behavior to be directed onto people as it can result
in scratches and bites. When playing with the kitten
always use a toy. Do
not encourage them to attack hands and feet! It may
be cute when they are young but you don't want a 10
pound adult cat attacking your feet! If kittens get
too rough use a loud noise
or spray bottle to end
the activity. Hitting a cat usually only escalates
aggressive behavior. A time out may be advisable to
cool the cat off.
Destructive Behavior
- Kittens tear around as they
play, often knocking things over. They will outgrow
this, however in the meantime it is advisable to remove
fragile or valuable objects until they settle down.
They can be especially hard on curtains.
Taking down sheers or tying up curtains so they can't
be used as ladders is advisable. Don't leave food,
butter or drinks on counters or tables, as this will
encourage kittens to explore there. Keep a spray bottle
or water gun handy when you do catch the kitten on
eating areas.
Scratching Behavior
- Scratching objects has nothing
to do with sharpening their claws – they are
actually marking their territory. Cats like furniture
because it never tips and they can lie on top of it.
Consider this when building or buying a scratching
post. Make it solid and stable. Encourage kitten
by rubbing their feet on it and embedding catnip into
its construction.
- Try trimming
your kitten's sharp nails.
This can be done with regular nail cutters or special
ones designed for pets. It is important to avoid the
quick, which can be seen as the pink area on white
nails. For cats with black nails, have your veterinarian
show you how far the nails can be trimmed. Cats nails
grow quickly, so weekly trimming is required to keep
them short.
If your cat is still destructive
and is to be strictly indoors, consider declawing. This
surgical procedure requires a general anesthetic and
is most commonly performed when the pet is spayed or
neutered at 6 months. It is well tolerated by young
cats, and any discomfort can be alleviated by treatment
with pain-killers.
TOP
Your
New Puppy:
Instead of waiting until your pet is
sick to visit your veterinarian, invest in some preventative
medicine to keep your puppy healthy. Puppy’s first
visit can be any time after 6 weeks.
VACCINATIONS
The diseases we vaccinate for have no cures and are
often fatal. Puppies need a series of 2-3 vaccinations,
a month apart. The first vaccination can be given as
young as 6 weeks. Adults then receive a yearly booster.
DEWORMING
Every puppy needs to be dewormed. Puppies are infected
by their mother and these intestinal parasites are not
visible in the stools. Worms are very debilitating to
puppies causing poor growth, pot-bellies, colic, vomiting,
diarrhea and cough. An adult dog should be routinely
dewormed or have their stool checked yearly.
HEARTWORM PREVENTION
This disease is on the rise in Nova Scotia. Treatment
is expensive, difficult and often there is permanent
damage to the heart. Preventative medication and routine
screening will protect your puppy.
FLEA PREVENTION
Fleas can cause anemia in young animals and they are
the number one cause of skin problems in the dog. Prevention
is easy. Treatment is more difficult and costly. If
left untreated they will infest the environment, indoors
and out.
DENTAL CARE
Once dental disease develops in older dogs, there is
no cure. Attention to teeth through proper diet, chew
toys, and brushing will help to ensure your pup’s
teeth last his lifetime.
SPAY/NEUTER
There are many medical and behavioral problems associated
with reproduction. Animal overpopulation is a serious
problem. All household pets should be spayed and neutered
to enhance the quality of their life and yours.
Puppies can be housebroken at a very
young age. They generally have bladder control equal
to their age in months plus 1 (2 months old = 3 hours).
Do not consider your puppy housebroken until it has
gone 6 weeks without an accident.
Teach your puppy where it should be going
- Take the puppy out every time it eats,
drinks, wakes from a nap, and after an active play.
- Accompany pup outside.
- Take to the same spot each time and
give plenty of praise or a treat for appropriate elimination.
Do not engage in play or reward puppy until he has
gone.
Schedule meals
- Feed separate meals 2-4 times daily,
for 15-20 minutes.
- Pick up both food and water between
feedings. You can provide water more frequently but
remember to take him outside after he drinks.
- Feed the last meal 3-5 hours before
bedtime.
Prevent Mistakes
- Do not leave unsupervised in the house.
- A great way to keep an eye on your
puppy while working around the house is to tie a 6
foot leash around your waist. Puppy gets used to the
leash and you can keep an eye out for accidents-to-be.
- Confine to a small space when
not under supervision. We strongly recommend crate
training.
Avoid punishment
- We punish a dog for what they are
doing that exact moment. If they have just finished,
it is too late.
- Punish a puppy with a firm “no”
only if caught in the act, and immediately take outside.
SOME COMMON MYTHS:
MYTH: When my puppy has an accident in
the house, his nose should be rubbed in it.
TRUTH: This is a very ineffective form of punishment
and may even teach the dog to eat his stool.
MYTH: My puppy knows he’s bad –
he looks guilty and hides.
TRUTH: From punishment a puppy will learn to associate
the mess with being in big trouble, but they do not
make the connection with putting the mess there in the
first place!
MYTH: Paper-training is the easiest way
to housebreak a puppy.
TRUTH: Paper training is generally ineffective, and
the transition from the papers to outdoors is difficult.
Crate-training is the easiest way to housebreak a dog.
TROUBLESHOOTING:
Q. My puppy has an awful lot of stools
and most of his accidents are in the form of bowel movements.
A. Some puppy foods contain a lot of filler and are
not that digestible. Feeding a better quality puppy
food will result in fewer bowel movements and better
control. Puppy will have to eat less, so even though
the bag may cost more, it will last longer.
Q. My puppy has diarrhea.
A. Any dog with diarrhea has control problems, let alone
a puppy. Housebreaking can’t begin until the problem
is resolved. See your veterinarian.
Q. My puppy is too busy playing outdoors
to go, then comes in and has an accident in the house.
A. Avoid this by putting him in his bed/crate for a
short time or keeping him on a leash with you, and then
going back out shortly.
Q. My puppy is okay in the day but has
accidents at night.
A. Its time to try crate-training.
Q. It’s too cold outside for my
little puppy.
A. It is never too cold for a short visit outside, regardless
of the breed or size. Often housebreaking is quicker
in the winter because the cold air stimulates puppies
to urinate.
Q. My puppy had an accident and now keeps
trying to go there again.
A. Smell is a strong stimulus to go again, so proper
cleaning of soiled areas is important.
CLEANING UP
Remember, a dog’s nose is so much better than ours
that, even when we can’t smell it, they usually
can.
CLEAN AREA with non-ammonia based cleaner
such as Pine-sol. On carpet Urine Erase works well.
MASK ANY RESIDUAL ODOR. On hard surfaces use Dettol,
and on carpet work a small amount of moth ball crystals
(¼ tsp) into the area.
Cement is porous and hard to treat, so consider painting.
If the problem reoccurs, retreat and
prevent access to those areas by using a baby gate,
for example.
Why crate train?
- A crate acts as a den to provide privacy
and comfort and security. It is NOT punishment. It
will be a special place of their own.
- It is the most successful method
of housebreaking.
- Later it will be useful for
traveling and boarding.
It prevents chewing and destructive behavior and costly
damage to property.
- It is the safest place for a
dog when home alone
When to not use a crate
Crate training cannot be used if the
pup is isolated for long periods of time. The pup should
be never left in it more than their limit (2 months=3
hours, 3 months=4 hours, etc…).
Steps:
1. Pick a crate. The crate should be
large enough for the adult dog to stand and turn around
in. Models vary from collapsible wire to plastic travel
kennels to homemade versions.
2. Keep crate in kitchen or bedroom.
Do not keep in an isolated area.
3. To introduce to crate, leave crate
open and put treats, food and toys in crate to encourage
the puppy, as well as something to lie on. Try to associate
the crate with pleasant experiences. Do not use the
crate as punishment!
4. Before placing puppy in the crate
ensure he has had adequate attention and exercise, and
is ready for a nap.
5. Train to confinement gradually. Put
the pup in for a few minutes with the door closed. Leave
the room but stay in hearing range. Then try 10 minutes,
then a half hour. If he makes a fuss, ignore it. Never
reward the pup by letting it out when it cries or whines.
Use a loud noise or a water gun to distract him into
being quiet for a few seconds, then let him out. This
teaches him he cannot get out by making a fuss, and
you reward quiet behavior with attention.
6. Do not leave food or water in the
crate while housebreaking.
GRADUALLY SWITCH DIETS:
When you first bring puppy home, feed
the same food for a few days. Then mix new food with
the old food and switch over slowly. This will prevent
diarrhea.
PICK YOUR PUPPY'S DIET CAREFULLY.
The saying “you get what you pay
for” is never truer than with pet foods. Unfortunately,
there is no easy way to compare foods. The “guaranteed
analysis” on the bag is a chemical analysis and
tells you nothing about the nutritional value or quality
of a food. A top quality puppy food is more digestible
so puppy will eat less, have fewer digestive upsets,
and have less stool (all of which makes housebreaking
easier). The quality of the diet will also affects
puppy’s growth and the quality of his coat.
FEED SEPARATE MEALS.
Free choice feeding makes housebreaking
much more difficult and can lead to digestive upset
and obesity.
CHOOSE HEALTHY TREATS.
Dog treats are best but watch the calories
– some are very fattening. If you want to give
“people food’ treats, choose healthy ones
such as vegetables or arrowroot cookies. Do not feed
bones, milk or table scraps.
DO NOT FEED FROM THE TABLE.
This is a very bad habit that leads
to begging and obesity. Feed pups from their own dish,
away from the table.
HOW MUCH TO FEED?
Start by feeding your puppy the amount
recommended for the particular diet, size and age
of puppy. Decisions to increase or decrease the diet
are then based on the pup’s body condition. Through
your dog’s life, diet changes will be based on
how your puppy feels – is it too thin or too
heavy? So it is very important to feel your dog regularly
– ask your vet what to look for.
FOR MORE INFORMATION GO TO PROPER PET
CARE - QUESTIONS ABOUT DIET?
1. Start training your puppy right away.
Work for short periods, 10-15 minutes a couple times
a day. Work with the puppy when it is not excited and
things are quiet.
2. Train using one word commands, starting
first with ‘sit’ then ‘down’, ‘come’,
‘stay’, and ‘heel’. Avoid using
the puppy’s name with the command. You can tie
the command to hand signals or a clicker if you wish.
3. Avoid saying the command over and
over. Puppies will learn they don’t have to listen
unless multiple commands are given.
4. Reward behavior immediately with food,
praise and attention.
5. The opposite of reward is ‘no
reward’. It is not punishment. If a puppy fails
at any level, stop and go back a step.
SIT: Start with puppy standing, hold
a treat in front of its nose, and move the treat up
while giving the rear a push down. Say “sit”
as the pup sits and give the treat. Only give the command
once. If pup does not sit on command, push rear down
and reward the pup.
DOWN: Start from the sitting position,
which pup has learned. Hold food in front of nose then
sweep down to the floor, while pushing down on pup shoulders.
Say “down” and immediately give the treat.
COME: When teaching to come, it is important
to have a treat the pup will come for. Don’t use
the command if pup is apt to ignore you. If necessary,
keep pup on a long leash. Give the command “come”,
while holding out treat. Moving backwards will sometimes
encourage pup to run to you. Reward pup immediately
then move a few steps back and repeat command.
STAY: This is the more difficult command
to learn as pups don’t like to stay still. Work
on ‘sit stay’ first, then after mastered try
‘down stay’. Put in the sit position and give
the stay command. Start with short intervals, such as
5 seconds and gradually increase. Stay close to pet
until short stays (30 seconds) are mastered. Then start
working on distance by walking away from pet.
HEEL: Teaching a pup to heel can begin
once you start walking on leash around 3 months of age.
As pup moves out of position, bring back with a sharp
jerk and immediately reward for being in the correct
position. The leash must be loose unless correcting,
or the pup will learn to steadily pull against you.
If pup does not respond to correction with a collar
or does tends to pull, a head halter such as a Halti
or Gentle Leader would be of tremendous benefit.
Puppies use their mouths to explore their
environment and to play. Chewing is generally the worst
between 3 and 5 months as their baby teeth are replaced
with adult teeth. It is important pups learn early what
is okay to chew on and what is not.
PROVIDE LOTS OF APPROPRIATE CHEW TOYS.
- Avoid old socks or shoes as pups cannot
tell the difference between old and new clothes.
- Toys must be durable enough that large
pieces do not break off and get eaten.
- Heavy plastic toys come in an
endless variety of forms and strengths. Rubber Kongs
are especially good.
- Ropes and stuffed toys are fine
unless they start to come apart, then its time for
a new one.
- Rawhides are a common cause
of upset stomachs. They need to be large and tough
enough to gradually wear away and not be eaten. Pressed
rawhide is somewhat better.
- Wood tends to splinter and is
best discouraged.
- Some bones are okay to eat,
such as Booda Bones made from cornstarch.
- DO NOT GIVE REAL BONES –
they are the most common cause of vomiting, diarrhea
and bowel obstruction in dogs.
When your puppy chews on something inappropriate
(including people), give a firm “no” and substitute
a favorite toy. Do not use hands or feet as play toys
with a puppy. Always get a ball or rope to throw instead.
Do not leave pup unsupervised in the
house. Crate train or build an enclosed run outdoors.
Dogs are a pack animal and thus develop
a social hierarchy. No two dogs can be equal, one is
boss (or dominant) and one is more submissive. People
become part of a dog’s pack and to be a good pet,
the pup must be submissive to all members in the household.
Certain breeds of dogs tend to be more dominant than
others and this should be considered when choosing a
family pet. To prevent problems with dominance, which
can lead to aggression if the dog is challenged, consider
the following.
- The pup should learn to accept
all forms of handling without resistance or anxiety.
This includes trimming nails, lifting, bathing, grooming,
and cleaning ears and eyes. At some point a dog will
need these things done for health reasons, so learning
to tolerate them at a young age is important and also
teaches them who is boss.
- Training a pup to respond to
basic commands such as sit and stay teaches that you
are in command and results in a better mannered pet.
- Avoid physical punishment but
never ignore growling. A common exercise to discipline
rowdy pups involves rolling upside down, holding muzzle
and giving direct eye contact. Teaching a puppy to
accept this submissive position is far more effective
than spanking or yelling.
- Prevent problems such as aggression
around food or objects, by teaching to give up objects
on the ‘drop’ command. Start by using a
treat to encourage him to drop the toy, then switch
to verbal rewards. Also, make a habit of interrupting
your dog while eating, removing and replacing his
food, and using sit and down commands.
- If a pup is stubborn and mouth-orientated,
avoid games such as tug-of-war and rough-housing.
- As a rule, use commands like
sit and down before initiating play, letting out,
and feeding. This ensures you are telling the dog
what to do, instead of dog telling you.
- Don't let anyone pat a jumping
puppy. Some pups have problems with over-exuberance
and are always jumping on people. It is important
to never reward inappropriate behavior. Try the following:
- Step back from the puppy
and give a counter-command such as sit. Then reward
for sitting.
- Teach ‘off’, by
kneeing dog in chest and then rewarding for having
all four feet on the ground.
- Burn off energy by initiating
a play-time or going for a walk.
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