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Cat Care Questions Related To:

Vaccinations & Disease
Spaying/Neutering
Declawing
Fleas
Diet
Parasites (worms)
Dentistry

Questions Related to Vaccinations:

Q: What is the purpose of vaccinations? Is it really necessary to vaccinate my cat?

A: The purpose of vaccination is to prevent diseases. We vaccinate your pets against diseases which are potentially life threatening,highly infectious and often costly to treat if your pet does become infected. The best way to ensure your pet has a long and healthy life is to keep vaccinations up to date.

Q: I just got a kitten, and I want her vaccinated...when does she need her vaccinations?

A: As soon as possible. Kittens require a series of shots which can be started as young as 6 weeks. They need a series of boosters for two reasons. One is to ensure that memory is created within your kitten's immune system to enable it to recognize any foreign diseases/viruses, etc... Secondly, a nursing kitten will receive antibodies from its mother to protect it from diseases during its first weeks of life. Unfortunately, these antibodies can keep a vaccine from being as effective, and we deal with this by giving a series of shots every 4 weeks until the kitten is approximately 16 weeks old.

Q: My cat stays inside. Does she need to be vaccinated?

A: We recommend vaccination even for indoor cats because:

• many cat diseases can be carried inside by people
• many kittens who are supposed to be indoors do escape on occasion
• wildlife has been known to get into houses
• other pets may visit, you may take your pet out visiting or bring home another pet someday
  

Q:Does my cat require yearly boosters?

A: There has been a lot of discussion lately in the veterinary field as to how often cats should be vaccinated. The protection which is provided by a vaccine will generally decrease over time. Unfortunately, to date there have been no proper studies done to determine exactly how long each vaccine lasts in the real world. Up until recently most vaccines were given as a yearly booster. There are veterinarians who feel that some vaccines last longer than one year. There is a lot of controversy and the bottom line is - your veterinarian will advise you of an appropriate vaccine schedule depending upon your location and your cat's lifestyle.

Q: This "distemper" shot...will it make my cat friendlier?

A: No. "Distemper" in cats is actually a disease called Feline Panleukopenia. It is a virus that attacks the gastrointestinal system, causing severe vomiting and diarrhea. It also stops the body from producing white blood cells, which are used to fight infection. It is spread through the feces of infected cats. Affected animal are very sick: they are lethargic, have a high fever, don't eat and are vomiting and dehydrated. There is no cure. Sick animals need to be nursed in the hospital with fluids and antibiotics. The virus often is fatal.

The distemper vaccination will protect your cat for getting sick if exposed to this disease.

Q: Can my cat catch a cold? She is sneezing and has a runny nose and eyes.

A: A: Cats don't get the same type of cold that people do, but they do have there own respiratory diseases. Feline respiratory disease is easily passed from one cat to another by direct contact or droplets in the air from coughing or sneezing. Kittens are usually more seriously affected than adult cats. The symptoms include watery or sticky discharge from the nose and eyes, sores in the mouth, fever, lethargy and loss of appetite. There are two viruses involved: feline rhinotracheitis virus and feline calicivirus. Vaccines are available for both of these viruses and are usually included with feline panleukopenia in the standard "distemper" vaccine.

Q: What is Feline Leukemia?

A: Feline leukemia virus is a virus that is spread from cat to cat by close contact (fighting, grooming, etc...). It acts similar to HIV (AIDS) in people. A cat may have feline leukemia virus and show no outward signs. The cat can carry the virus for years and pass it to other cats. Some cats never get sick but in most cats the virus eventually suppresses the immune system so the cat becomes susceptible to other infections and the virus can even predispose to some types of cancer.

Symptoms vary - everything from vomiting and diarrhea to weight loss, breathing problems, anemia and fevers. There is no cure. Most sick cats that have feline leukemia virus die or are euthanized. There is a blood test that will detect the virus. Other animals (including dogs and humans) are not affected.

Vaccination against feline leukemia virus will protect your cat.

Q: Can my cat get rabies?

A: All mammals (cats, dogs, livestock, humans) can become infected with the rabies virus. The rabies virus attacks nerve tissue. Symptoms vary from aggression towards people and other animals to withdrawal and avoidance of peopleand other animals. Once a rabies infected animal starts showing symptoms death always occurs. Rabies is spread by bites or saliva of infected animals. Most rabies exists in wildlife, such as raccoons, skunks, foxes and bats. Therefore, an unvaccinated cat involved in a fight with a wild animal is at risk of rabies.

We vaccinate cats for rabies when they are over 12 weeks of age, again in one year and then every year or every three years, depending on the vaccine used and the local laws.

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Questions Related to Spay/Neutering:

There are many medical problems associated with reproduction. Male cats that are not neutered will roam and fight. Females will stay in heat for much of the year, endlessly trying to get outside and attracting every stray cat in the area. Both sexes will often urinate outside the litter box, and tom cat urine is especially foul smelling. Feline overpopulation is a very serious problem. All household pets should be spayed and neutered at 6 months of age to enhance the quality of their life and yours.

Q: Will my cats get fat & lazy after I get them neutered or spayed?

A: Unfortunately, most of the pets that we see are overweight. Like people, pets gain weight from eating too much and/or not exercising enough. In many cases, spaying or neutering is done at an age when the animal's metabolism is slowing and its need for food is decreased. If your pet continues to eat the same amount, it will gain weight.

Remember the "college spread"? - we all stop growing "up" and start growing "out" at around 18-20 years of age. The same thing happens to pets around 8-12 months of age - the same time we usually spay or neuter.

Pet owners can help their animals stay fit by providing plenty of exercise,not over-feeding and staying away from high fat treats (table scraps, milk, gravy, cookies, cheese, etc...)

Q: Should my cat have at least one cycle or litter before I spay her?

A: No. Spaying later rather than sooner results in increased risk of mammary tumours, uterine infections, unwanted pregnancy and problems with pregnancy. All of these things lead to increased vet bills. Not to mention the fact that cat overpopulation is a real problem, there are thousands of cats euthanized every day because they can't find homes.

Q: When is a good time to spay/neuter my animal?

A: The average pet reaches puberty at about the age of six months. We usually spay or neuter around that time, but these surgeries can be done as early as five months as age.

Q: When should I expect my cat's first "heat"?

A: Female cats and dogs "go into heat" because they have an estrus cycle (women have a menstrual cycle). The phase of estrus during this cycle is also called being "in heat". This is when the female is ovulating and is sexually responsive to the male. Other than at this time the females of these species have no interest in breeding.

The first heat can usually be expected between the ages of six and ten months. Rarely, cats as young as four months can go into heat. Cats usually stay in heat for about a week. During the breeding season (early spring through fall) cats go out of heat for about 2 weeks then go right back in if not bred!

Male cats do not have an estrus cycle (like men do not have a menstrual cycle), therefore they do not "go into heat", but are capable of breeding all the time.

Q: How long is pregnancy in the cat?

A: Pregnancy in cats usually lasts from 64 to 69 days.

Q: What does the term 'spay' really mean?

A: Spay is the simple term used when sterilizing a female dog or cat. This surgery involves the removal of both ovaries and the uterus. This is similar to ovariohysterectomy in women.

Q: What does neutering of my pet involve?

A: Neutering is when the testicles of a male dog or cat are surgically removed.

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Questions Related to Declawing:

Q: What is declawing?

A: Declawing is a surgical procedure in which the claws and the small bones they grow from are removed. This is usually done just on the front feet only since they are the ones that cause the most damage to furniture. In rare circumstances the back feet can be done as well, but we like to leave these in place to allow the cat some defense.

Q: Why do people declaw cats?

A: Most cats have some degree of scratching behavior. Tiny scent glands in the pads release a scent on scratched objects, in other words, they scratch to mark their territory. Cats consider their home and the furniture in it as part of their territory and, as a result, the expensive new sofa in the middle of the living room gets shredded. Most people have their cats declawed to prevent this often costly damage. Another reason to declaw is if the cat is overly aggressive towards people or other pets.

Q: I would like to have my cat declawed. When is the best time?

A: The best time to declaw is at the same time your cat is spayed or neutered (around 6 months of age). At this age your cat is old enough to safely undergo anesthesia, but young enough to bounce back fairly quickly for the procedure. One anesthesia reduces the stress to the animal and the cost to you. We find that older cats, especially if they are overweight, tend to have more post surgical discomfort.

Q: Is declawing my cat cruel?

A: A lot of cat owners express this concern. Procedures currently used are less painful than those used in the past. During the surgery there is no pain because the animal is under an anesthesia. A pain reliever is given before the animal even wakes up from anesthesia, so post-operative pain is minimized. After they go home some tenderness is to be expected. There are take-home pain relievers available if your cat is overly uncomfortable. Most people report that their cats have rapid, uneventful recoveries.
Some people are dead set against declawing. The veterinarians at Central Nova Animal Hospital feel that it has its place. We would far rather declaw a cat, using proper surgical procedures pain relief, than end up euthanizing that same cat because the owner is fed up with having furniture destroyed.

Q: Are there any alternatives to declawing?

A: Yes. Keep your cat away from furniture by placing a scratching post in a prominent area and rubbing some cat nip into it. Different cats have different preferences for scratching posts - some like carpet, others like wood, upholstery fabric or sisal - cover yours with whatever YOUR cat likes best. Keeping your cat's nails trimmed will not prevent scratching but will minimize damage done.
There are products available that you glue over your cat's claws to cover the sharp points - these products are only temporary and need to be replaced frequently. There is another surgical procedure called a tendonectomy, in which the claws are not removed but the tendons are cut so that the cat can't extend its claws. With this the cat's nails need to be kept trimmed or they can grow too long and become embedded in the pad, a very painful situation which can lead to infection.

Q: Can my cat go outside after he's declawed?

A: We recommend that your cat remain indoors if declawed since removal of the claws greatly reduces their ability to defend themselves.

Q: Can the claws grow back?

A: If the surgery is done properly and the entire bone is removed then the claws will not grow back.

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Questions Related to Fleas:

Q: My cat doesn't scratch so he doesn't have fleas...Right??

A: While many animals itch from fleas, others are not bothered by them. Fleas themselves are fast moving and often hard to see. A fine tooth flea comb is the best way to check for fleas. Besides picking up the bugs, it will also pick up flea dirt. This black stuff that looks like pepper is actually flea feces. It can be differentiated from soil by putting it on a paper towel with a drop of water. It will dissolve into red as it is digested blood.

Q: Why are fleas so hard to get rid of?

A: We actually have no problem killing fleas. The difficulty is that we can't kill them fast enough. So before they die, they have already reproduced. Every time a flea bites it lays 30-40 eggs. These eggs hatch in a week or so, causing the population to skyrocket rapidly. On top of this, fleas do develop resistance over time to most insecticides. So we have been fighting a losing battle using stronger insecticides with longer residuals (which isn't good for the pets or the environment), until we learned how to stop them from reproducing!

Q: My cat doesn't have fleas, and I don't want him to get them...what are my options?

A: Use a product that will sterilize the fleas your pet will come into contact with. This will prevent fleas from infesting your property and home. All pets in your household should be treated. The best time to start this treatment is early in the flea season, preferably May. Some choices include Program (an oral once a month liquid or an injection that lasts 6 months) or an Ovicollar (a non-insecticidal flea collar). You can also purchase sprays or mousses with insect growth regulators in them. While this needs to be applied at least once a month, it is a very economical approach to multi-animal households.

Q: If I use a flea prevention, will my cat still get fleas?

A: In a perfect world where all pets are treated and there is no wildlife, flea prevention alone would be 100% effective. However, in the real world your pet may still pick up an occasional flea, more if they visit a hot spot such as an infested beach or house. The fleas won't be able to reproduce so they cannot infest your home. Keep an insecticidal spray or shampoo or topical around for such emergencies.

Q: When are fleas at their worst?

A: In Nova Scotia, fleas are worst during hot humid summers, and peak in the months of August and September. It is best to start a flea prevention during May, before the fleas are able to build up their population.

Q: My cat has fleas!! What do I do??

A: If the problem is mild and your pet does not appear to be bothered by them, any of the flea preventative products available at your local vet clinic will take care of the problem in time by breaking the reproduction cycle of the flea.

However, if they are a problem, treat with an insecticide. Insecticides kill fleas, however, fleas can become resistant to them and there is always the potential for toxicity. That is why it is best to start your pet on a flea prevention product early, before fleas can become a problem. These prevention products are non-insecticides, and sterilize the fleas to prevent reproduction.

Advantage is a newer, very effective insecticide that has a high safety margin. Coming in vials that are applied to the skin on the neck of cats, it will kill the majority of fleas within two days, and has a residual of one month. Sprays and mousses are not as effective and most cats do not like having them applied, but are still an option. They need to be applied weekly. Shampoos provide a temporary relief but have no residual, and will not be adequate alone.

Q: My friend told me that my cat can get worms from eating a flea...is that true??

A: Yes. Fleas are the carrier for the tapeworm larvae. If your pet eats a flea that is infected while grooming, your pet will get worms.

Q: My cat stays indoors, can she get fleas?

A: An indoor cat is certainly at less risk of getting fleas, but a pet or person visiting can bring fleas into your home. You may also carry fleas in to your cat from outdoors or from a friend's house. The bottom line: you should consider a flea preventative even with an indoor cat.

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Questions Related to Diet:

Q: Is there a difference between a premium pet food and a lower grade food, besides the price?

A: A quality food is nutritionally balanced. Animals eat to satisfy their caloric requirements. The other nutrients have to be balanced within their serving. An imbalanced diet can have excesses as well as deficiencies. Often, lower grade foods are bulky and animals cannot get enough energy before filling up. Foods that are nutritionally imbalanced result in poor coats, excessive shedding, poor growth and stress on internal organs and bones. A quality food is also digestible. This refers to the percentage of food that is nutritionally available to the animal. A food with low digestibility will require animals to eat more, resulting in higher cost, and produce more stools.

As well, many lower quality foods market themselves based on palatability and formulate foods to simply provide enough nutrients to prevent series deficiencies. By making foods too palatable, and encouraging overeating, obesity has become our number one nutritional problem. Premium foods on the other hand, market optimum nutrition to promote health, longevity and performance.

Q: Can I determine the quality of the food from the label?

A: No! The label, which must meet the standards of the national research council, is a list of the minimum and sometimes maximum percentage of the nutrients (such as fats, proteins, ash, etc...) in a food. It is NOT a nutritional analysis, does NOT say the diet is nutritionally balanced, NOR that the ingredients are in a digestible form. A food meeting NRC requirements could be made from shoe leather and motor oil with a vitamin/mineral supplement. These labels are at best a crude guideline and cannot be used to compare foods!

Q:How can I judge a food?

A: Nutritional analysis and feeding trials are the only way to guarantee the quality of a food. All foods marketed by veterinarians are backed by scientific data and extensive feeding trials. For most lower grade food, this information is not available...and may not even exist!

A premium high quality diet is:

Q: Why is the food from a veterinarian so expensive as compared to the food I buy at the grocery store?

A: While a quality diet, such as those sold through a veterinarian, may cost more per bag, often it is NOT more expensive on an as feed basis (i.e.: the bag will last longer). As well, with veterinary foods, you are getting high quality! Your pet's coat will be healthier and your pet will have fewer health problems which saves on vet bills too!

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Questions Related to Worms:

Q: My cat is healthy... does that mean I don't have to worry about worms?

A: Most worm infestations in adult cats are sub clinical. This means that the pet shows no external signs. The worms can live happily inside your pet without you ever knowing. They release eggs into the feces which are too small to see with the naked eye. The best test for worms is to have a fecal run on a stool sample, which will check for the presence of these eggs.

The infestation can eventually build up to cause medical problems, such as vomiting, diarrhea or anemia. Equally important, some worms can infect people. The microscopic eggs contaminate the environment, such as gardens, lawns and sandboxes. And while some have to be ingested, others can migrate through the skin of both people and animals. By keeping your animal worm free such serious concerns can be avoided.

Q: Should my kitten be dewormed right away?

A: Yes. They should be dewormed for roundworm and hookworms as both can be passed from mother to kitten.

Q: How often should I deworm my cat?

A: Really, it depends on the lifestyle of your cat. A cat that lives inside only needs to be dewormed less often (maybe once a year...), whereas a cat that hunts a lot should be dewormed several times a year. Tapeworm medicine can be administered monthly to cats that hunt a lot. All kittens should have 3-4 doses of a good dewormer given 2 weeks apart.

Q: Are the worm capsules from a retail outlet as good as the medication available from my veterinarian?

A: Different worm medications have different effectiveness. Most veterinarian dewormers are 95-100% effective, while those purchased elsewhere are often not that effective. Also, there are many different types of worms, and many non-prescription medication will not even treat all of the common ones. A fecal test can be used to identify the specific types of worms which can be eliminated with specific and effective medication, or a more broad spectrum prescription dewormer can be chosen.

Q: What are the common types of worms and what can they do?

A: The common types of worms are roundworms, hookworms and tapeworms (however there are many other less common worms and parasites too)

Q: Do people need to worry about any cat parasites?

A: Eggs from roundworms and hookworms can live in the soil for years. These eggs can cause problems in people. Children are most at risk because they tend to play in the dirt and have more of a chance of eating these eggs.

Roundworm larvae can migrate to internal organs and the eyes, where they cause damage, including blindness. Because humans are not the proper hosts they never grow into adults in our intestines. Hookworm larvae can also migrate through the skin and cause itchy rashes.

Tapeworm segments, although rather disgusting to most owners, pose no health hazard to people. To be infected a person would have to eat a flea or raw rodent ... not likely!

Toxoplasma gondii is a parasite of can that can cause some concern for pregnant women. If you have been exposed already there is no concern. Daily scooping or disinfecting of the litter box will prevent any problem. Under cooked meat and unwashed vegetables pose more of a risk than petting your feline friend.

Questions Related to Dental Care:

Q: We never used to worry about our pet's teeth. Why has it become a problem?

A: More pets are indoors now, live closer with their owners and live longer, making dental problems more common and harder to ignore. An animal's tendency to develop dental problems is the result of many factors including genetic predisposition, diet, chewing habits and general health.

Q: Why should I worry about my pet’s teeth?

A: Besides causing very bad breath, dental disease is a constant drain on your pet's immune system that causes premature aging. It can lead to chronic cough from tonsil and throat infections and can cause both lung and sinus disorders. Infection in the mouth may be picked up by the bloodstream and spread elsewhere in the body, most commonly to the heart and kidney. Because animals are often stoic when is comes to dental pain, problems can be easily missed until the teeth are rotten and abscessed, requiring major dental work. A dental exam is an important part of your pet's yearly check-up.

Q: What are the signs of dental disease?

A: Bad breath, Cough, Red gums, Drooling, Staining and tarter on teeth, Decreased appetite, Dropping food, Eating on one side of the mouth

Q: What can I do to prevent my young cat from having bad teeth when she gets older?

Q: My pet already has a serious tarter build-up – what can I do?

A: At this point your pet needs a general anesthetic and his teeth cleaned. If the problem is ignored, it will result in periodontal disease and infected, rotting teeth.

Having the teeth cleaned (dental prophylaxis) is a time-consuming procedure, usually taking between 30 and 60 minutes. It takes longer with animals than people because of the amount of tarter and staining that has usually been allowed to accumulate. To do a proper job requires a general anesthetic.

Cleaning a pet’s teeth is not a one-time procedure that corrects all dental problems. It is important to consider the different options for home care, to help keep these newly polished teeth clean as long as possible. Even so, many pets will require dental prophylaxis at regular intervals, varying from 6 months to every couple years. The more that can be done at home, the longer the interval between teeth cleaning and the better the chances your pet will keep his teeth into his old age.

Q: My pet has bad breath and gum disease but he doesn’t have much tarter. Why?

A: Most of these pets are very sensitive to the plaque that accumulates under the gum line. T/D cat food helps to control this tarter and can significantly improve your cat's breath. Mouth rinses that can be squirted along the gum line decrease the bacteria in the mouth and are helpful in controlling the gingival disease. Maxiguard Gel is a flavorless oral gel while Novaldent is a cherry flavoured rinse. Regular dental cleaning is recommended for all pets with moderate gingival disease.

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